Diving in Cuba

"Go to Cuba before it is too late!" promised the add in the travel section of the saturday edition of the daily newspaper. Some of my friends already had been to Cuba and loved it. So why not, off we went - before is was too late.

Just before easter 2008 we set off for Cuba - high expectations, and pockets full of Euro - since the Cubanese would rather have hard currency instead of the American Peso. Our expectations became our curse, or soo it seemed, when everybody else also packed their bags and went to Cuba. Havana a true tourist hell, and in our book only bearable for a couple of days.

"Go to Cuba before it is too late". Too late for what? The abdiction of Mr. Big Rancher, aka Castro? The future had just arrived a couple of months before we did. GSM-coverage and internet are available at most of the hotels. It is possible to start your own business, if and only if, you get your license from the government and take into account that it can be revoked the next day. The average Cuban is ceaseing the day and making as much money as possible before the Big Rancher changes his mind.

Initially we set out for at nice relaxing vacation in Cuba, until I came accross an article in an old dive magazine describing whale sharks in the waters of Cuba. The idea of extending the vacation to a dive-vacation was born. Since we had decided to go to Trinidad to spend some time on the beach, why not extend it with a couple of dives. After a few days in Havana we bought tickets for the long haul busses going to Trinidad at the Hotel, and set out the next morning.

Arriving in Trinidad was a bit of a surprise - never have a seen so many tourists chasing the same attractions, buying loads of crap and 'enjoying' the all-inclusive hotels near the beach. So we decided to look for the dive center/shack and fould the only one in the middle of the beach. A bunch of cuban dive cowboys aparrently ran the place and didn't seem too exited when two new customers showed up in at the center. Reluctantly the only guy who spoke english, told us to go and buy the dives from the nice tour operator official at one of the hotels. So we did and have a shell out approx. 20 Euro per dive, and showed up the next morning at the center.

We bought 4 dives each. Almost every day the boat dropped us off at exactly the same place, the dives were nice and average. Not overdove like other places, and the Cubans seem to be very aware of the value of protecting the reefs and corals. To be honest, I was a bit disappointed and had a chat with some other guests at the center. Aparrently María la Gorda at the far east of Cuba or Holguin on the north coast should have some of the best dives in Cuba. María la Gorda (Maria the fat) is an divers only location, the only reason going there is diving. Holguin on the other hand also have really nice beaches and all-inclusive hotels.

Do's:

• Go to the illegal restaurants. It fun cheap and you get to see how people really live. The Cubanese are friendly and helpsome, even though you have to pay a bit for the helpfullness. Don't be shared by the fact that it is illegal - illegal in Cuban terms means that the government wont get their share of the profit, which means everything.
• In Havana stay at the ***++ hotels - you will have all the nessacities of home, warm water, access to the internet and little noise form the street.
• If you want to go to a cigar factory, go by a tour, there are a number of dubious types rooming the streets and the area behind Capitolio, offering anything from cigars to special offers on underpants.
• Buy your cigars in one big bang from your hotel, its often cheaper than at the cigarfactories and the prices can be bagained.
• Hire a car and go outside Havana, alternatively go by tourbuses (they operate as ordinary longhaul busses) you can by tickets on your hotel. However it is cheaper to go by car, and you get access to less crowded places. Please be carefull of "invented" damaged when the car is returned, make sure all scratches are recorded, otherwise you will pay for them. Dont be chicken like us - if you want to go places: hire a car!
• Diving in Trinidad is average - not overdove by the hundreds. There are nice corals to see and the Cubans are aware of the fact that the coral reefs need to be protected. However it is not the Red Sea so dont get your expectations up high. You need to have some experience diving, the crew at the stateowned diving companies are not that helpfull nor timely, be prepared for statements such as: "We dont go diving today, because no diesel" or "boat is broken".
• Remember your status as a walking 1000 Euro note - it can work for you or against you. You choose
• Remember that Trinidad (Brisas del Mar and other all-inclusive hotels) are for the Canadians what the southern of Spain is for the Europeans - a massive congestion of fat people stuffing their bellies.
• Buy some cigars, even if you don't smoke, your boss will appreciate the gesture.
• Buy the the good Cuban rum, f.ex. Havana Club 7 year, served with an single icecube or Havana Club 3 year for Mojitos, its money well spent.
• Be selective and buy some of the great art directly from the Cuban artists. Dont buy the naked lady-crap, instead buy from the art workshop/school close to the square with the cathedral (its in an alley at the far end of the square). Some of the artists are famous outside Cuba and with a bit of luck you can make a very good buy.

and dont's:

• Dont spend more than two days in Havana, if you do get a 4 or 5 star hotel with a pool on the roof.
• Dont waste time in Hemmingways famous bar - it's overrated and crowded.
• Dont waste money on cosy looking Cuban stateowned hotels, they are not worth the money.
• Stay out of Veradero and other all inclusive areas - it truly overrated and reminds me more of a zoo.

In the end we had a really nice vacation. Just keep in mind that you will have to pay for everything even visits to the restroom. Seek out the adventure without beeing outright stupid, stay out of the brothels (the cases of HIV is on the rise in Cuba), enjoy the food and drinks even though it's not exactly cheap anymore. For the record, if you wish to see whale sharks, they only visit Cuba in october/november.